Although it had predicted to be onshore today, the light winds meant the sea was glassy smooth. 2ft waves peaked and rolled across the beach. Perfection! I slapped on my shortie and a ton of sunscreen, the water was clear and the sun was fierce. I paddled out among the other surfers. Only 4 guys were out, probably due to the onshore forecast. One of my great loves of surfing is floating among the waves. There is something so serene about being a buoy in the water, floating where the currents take you, feeling the surge of the swell as it passes beneath you. I looked back at the land and saw people rushing about. Driving kids to soccer games, going to work, shopping or some other inane task. As I bobbed about the swell, I drifted into my daydreaming, zen state. Which to be fair, is probably why my surfing is not what it should be – too much zen, not enough actual surfing. Out here it was as if you could hit the pause button. No phone, no watch, no interruptions.
Just then a dark shadow passed underneath my board. FARK!!!! A high pitched squeal emerged from my mouth as I sat frozen on my board. I don’t have anything against sharks, but there is no way I’m going to be fish food! What do I do? Paddle furiously or stay still? What did they do in Jaws?
I turned to the beach, deciding to desperately remove myself from the water. Immediately a shape came out of the water in front of me. This was it, it was all over!!
Then it savagely blew spray into my face… Hangon, spray?
Woah! It was a dolphin. The bastard scared the crap out of me!
As I regained my composure I discovered it was a pod of around seven. They were playing among the waves, just like me. I forgot the waves and watched them swirl through the water, spiraling together, flicking their tails as they shot through the surface, showing me their pale underbelly. I made eye contact with a young dolphin, his eyes were sparkling with excitement and mischievousness. It was as if he was saying, “Check this out.” A set wave came through and they claimed it as their own. They rode in the wave, twisting along the unbroken section, inches from breaking the surface. The young dolphin powered through the face of the wave, shooting a good 2 meters through the air and giving a playful call as he did so.
If you’ve ever gotten close to a wild dolphin, it’s a magical experience. They are graceful, playful and mesmerizing. But at the same time, these are wild animals. They are solid creatures weighing up to 200kg of solid muscle.
As they skimmed through the water, their thick tails barely moved. I paddled closer and thought about the comparison between their movements in the water and mine. The power that must be in that tail is remarkable, one accidental knock and I’d be unconscious!
In comparison by arms felt slow and sluggish as they pushed through the water causing a wash behind me. A dolphin behind me blew out and took a breath of air, I turned and saw nothing, no wake, just still water. The two dolphins wrestling next to me pushed up towards the surface, one shot out of the water, its silver gleaming body close enough for me to touch it. Then with a flick of its tail and a lot of water sent my way, they were off.
Showing posts with label surfing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label surfing. Show all posts
Saturday, October 22, 2011
Monday, July 11, 2011
Surfing Santa Teresa, Costa Rica
The beach was beautiful. An absolutely perfect, long white sand strip. Clear blue warm 26 degree water on one side and shady palm trees on the other. The blazing sun beat down and the beach break rolled in consistently.
My surfing swings from unco to decent depending on my mindset. I had been reading Dennis Waitleys, "how to be a winner" and was subsequently primed with full optimism. I stood on the beach, my head full of positive thoughts and a nice 6’4 thruster under my arm. It was ON!
My rented board had “Surf Betty” printed along it, so it got the unfortunate name of “Sweaty Betty.” But despite that she surfed beautifully!
I easily paddled out the rip and almost immediately caught a monster wave, very late. I landed the huge drop with a big backhand carve back up the face of the wave, wooo hooo!
The adrenaline and purity of surfing is something unlike anything else. Riding along a wave comes close to the ‘in the moment’ feel of an orgasm. I rode along side the smooth face of the wave until I was almost at the rocks. I kicked off the top of the wave and scrambled back out to the line up.
Adam was paddling back out and saw the whole thing. “Awesome! That’s the best I’ve ever seen you surf!” He was impressed and I was completely stoked. From that wave alone, the smile would be stuck on my face for the next few days.
But the sun hadn’t set yet, and there were more waves to surf. Me and Sweaty Betty were on! Another wave rolled through, this time it was a right away from the rocks. I turned and the wave lifted me up to my feet, it was a big, smooth face, emptying up ... dam it was good fun!
Our days in Santa Teresa were all the same: Breakfast, surf, lunch, nap, cuddle, surf, dinner and sleep. It was pure Bliss.
My surfing swings from unco to decent depending on my mindset. I had been reading Dennis Waitleys, "how to be a winner" and was subsequently primed with full optimism. I stood on the beach, my head full of positive thoughts and a nice 6’4 thruster under my arm. It was ON!
My rented board had “Surf Betty” printed along it, so it got the unfortunate name of “Sweaty Betty.” But despite that she surfed beautifully!
I easily paddled out the rip and almost immediately caught a monster wave, very late. I landed the huge drop with a big backhand carve back up the face of the wave, wooo hooo!
The adrenaline and purity of surfing is something unlike anything else. Riding along a wave comes close to the ‘in the moment’ feel of an orgasm. I rode along side the smooth face of the wave until I was almost at the rocks. I kicked off the top of the wave and scrambled back out to the line up.
Adam was paddling back out and saw the whole thing. “Awesome! That’s the best I’ve ever seen you surf!” He was impressed and I was completely stoked. From that wave alone, the smile would be stuck on my face for the next few days.
But the sun hadn’t set yet, and there were more waves to surf. Me and Sweaty Betty were on! Another wave rolled through, this time it was a right away from the rocks. I turned and the wave lifted me up to my feet, it was a big, smooth face, emptying up ... dam it was good fun!
Our days in Santa Teresa were all the same: Breakfast, surf, lunch, nap, cuddle, surf, dinner and sleep. It was pure Bliss.
Sunday, July 3, 2011
Waikiki dreaming
Sitting out on my rental board at Waikiki I searched the sea for swell... and saw nothing. The waves seem to come out of nowhere, I’m not sure if it’s the depth of the water or the fact that the waves are so wide, but it appears that there is no swell until it hits the reef and a sudden 2ft peak is formed. Long before the wave has broken at least four people are paddling for it. Adam joins them. I’m not sure if it’s the wild look in his eyes, the bared teeth, the wildly kicking legs, or a combination but somehow the others know that he wants it more and they pull off the wave. In a graceful swoop he jumps to his feet and steers the board left. The wave still hasn’t broken and for all intents and purposes it is still just swell. As he reaches the middle of the wave a little ball of froth spills over the edge and finally it is a wave. Effortlessly he coasts back towards the unbroken face, rising and falling along the wave until it all but disappears.
The first wave in Hawaii – Woo hoo! Now it’s my turn!
I look around the line-up and instantly recognise three groups.
First group: The locals. Easily identified by bronzed skin and a steely line up face that instantly conveys an impression that you are trespassing and don’t belong. Hawaiians are friendly until you surf their break. Even the guidebook warns that under no circumstances should you ever take a locals wave in Hawaii.
Second group: Learners. Also easily identified. Often have trouble sitting on their board and will always lie too far back while paddling – this not only increases drag through the water, but gives an impression resembling a turtle trying to mate with a surfboard. Learners are almost as dangerous as locals. They can and will fling their 10ft mal in any direction at anytime for what seems to be no reason. Keep clear!
The third group included me: Tourists who can surf. These are identified by not being part of either group 1 or 2 and looking wary of both groups 1 and 2.
A swell line appeared so I turned and paddled like all hell. A quick look at the approaching swell guaranteed that I’d be on this wave, but first a quick look beside me to see if I was dropping in on anyone. Sure enough a steely faced local chick was paddling for the same wave. She was on the inside with the right of way. Damn. Part of my brain went “Stuff it, it’s your wave!” And sure enough I was then on the wave. A look over my shoulder proved she was too. Our eyes met, her’s said ‘get off my wave,’ mine said ‘oops’ or so I hoped. I cut along the wide face weaving up and down. Magic!
Many people have tried to describe the magic that is surfing. The feeling of gliding along the wave is as close to being in the moment as you can physically be. The balance, the fleeting moments left on the wave, the adrenaline, the feel of the wind, the cool water, the wax beneath your toes and the sun, all combine and almost overload the senses. When it’s all over it leaves you with a massive smile on your face and all your thoughts are honed to ‘I wanna do that again!’
I kicked off the wave and before I could make eye contact with the local chick, I turned back out to the break. A giant smile plastered across my face.
The first wave in Hawaii – Woo hoo! Now it’s my turn!
I look around the line-up and instantly recognise three groups.
First group: The locals. Easily identified by bronzed skin and a steely line up face that instantly conveys an impression that you are trespassing and don’t belong. Hawaiians are friendly until you surf their break. Even the guidebook warns that under no circumstances should you ever take a locals wave in Hawaii.
Second group: Learners. Also easily identified. Often have trouble sitting on their board and will always lie too far back while paddling – this not only increases drag through the water, but gives an impression resembling a turtle trying to mate with a surfboard. Learners are almost as dangerous as locals. They can and will fling their 10ft mal in any direction at anytime for what seems to be no reason. Keep clear!
The third group included me: Tourists who can surf. These are identified by not being part of either group 1 or 2 and looking wary of both groups 1 and 2.
A swell line appeared so I turned and paddled like all hell. A quick look at the approaching swell guaranteed that I’d be on this wave, but first a quick look beside me to see if I was dropping in on anyone. Sure enough a steely faced local chick was paddling for the same wave. She was on the inside with the right of way. Damn. Part of my brain went “Stuff it, it’s your wave!” And sure enough I was then on the wave. A look over my shoulder proved she was too. Our eyes met, her’s said ‘get off my wave,’ mine said ‘oops’ or so I hoped. I cut along the wide face weaving up and down. Magic!
Many people have tried to describe the magic that is surfing. The feeling of gliding along the wave is as close to being in the moment as you can physically be. The balance, the fleeting moments left on the wave, the adrenaline, the feel of the wind, the cool water, the wax beneath your toes and the sun, all combine and almost overload the senses. When it’s all over it leaves you with a massive smile on your face and all your thoughts are honed to ‘I wanna do that again!’
I kicked off the wave and before I could make eye contact with the local chick, I turned back out to the break. A giant smile plastered across my face.
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