The beach was beautiful. An absolutely perfect, long white sand strip. Clear blue warm 26 degree water on one side and shady palm trees on the other. The blazing sun beat down and the beach break rolled in consistently.
My surfing swings from unco to decent depending on my mindset. I had been reading Dennis Waitleys, "how to be a winner" and was subsequently primed with full optimism. I stood on the beach, my head full of positive thoughts and a nice 6’4 thruster under my arm. It was ON!
My rented board had “Surf Betty” printed along it, so it got the unfortunate name of “Sweaty Betty.” But despite that she surfed beautifully!
I easily paddled out the rip and almost immediately caught a monster wave, very late. I landed the huge drop with a big backhand carve back up the face of the wave, wooo hooo!
The adrenaline and purity of surfing is something unlike anything else. Riding along a wave comes close to the ‘in the moment’ feel of an orgasm. I rode along side the smooth face of the wave until I was almost at the rocks. I kicked off the top of the wave and scrambled back out to the line up.
Adam was paddling back out and saw the whole thing. “Awesome! That’s the best I’ve ever seen you surf!” He was impressed and I was completely stoked. From that wave alone, the smile would be stuck on my face for the next few days.
But the sun hadn’t set yet, and there were more waves to surf. Me and Sweaty Betty were on! Another wave rolled through, this time it was a right away from the rocks. I turned and the wave lifted me up to my feet, it was a big, smooth face, emptying up ... dam it was good fun!
Our days in Santa Teresa were all the same: Breakfast, surf, lunch, nap, cuddle, surf, dinner and sleep. It was pure Bliss.
No comments:
Post a Comment