Waikiki dreaming

Sitting out on my rental board at Waikiki I searched the sea for swell... and saw nothing. The waves seem to come out of nowhere, I’m not sure if it’s the depth of the water or the fact that the waves are so wide, but it appears that there is no swell until it hits the reef and a sudden 2ft peak is formed. Long before the wave has broken at least four people are paddling for it. Adam joins them. I’m not sure if it’s the wild look in his eyes, the bared teeth, the wildly kicking legs, or a combination but somehow the others know that he wants it more and they pull off the wave. In a graceful swoop he jumps to his feet and steers the board left. The wave still hasn’t broken and for all intents and purposes it is still just swell. As he reaches the middle of the wave a little ball of froth spills over the edge and finally it is a wave. Effortlessly he coasts back towards the unbroken face, rising and falling along the wave until it all but disappears.

The first wave in Hawaii – Woo hoo! Now it’s my turn!
I look around the line-up and instantly recognise three groups.

First group: The locals. Easily identified by bronzed skin and a steely line up face that instantly conveys an impression that you are trespassing and don’t belong. Hawaiians are friendly until you surf their break. Even the guidebook warns that under no circumstances should you ever take a locals wave in Hawaii.

Second group: Learners. Also easily identified. Often have trouble sitting on their board and will always lie too far back while paddling – this not only increases drag through the water, but gives an impression resembling a turtle trying to mate with a surfboard. Learners are almost as dangerous as locals. They can and will fling their 10ft mal in any direction at anytime for what seems to be no reason. Keep clear!

The third group included me: Tourists who can surf. These are identified by not being part of either group 1 or 2 and looking wary of both groups 1 and 2.

A swell line appeared so I turned and paddled like all hell. A quick look at the approaching swell guaranteed that I’d be on this wave, but first a quick look beside me to see if I was dropping in on anyone. Sure enough a steely faced local chick was paddling for the same wave. She was on the inside with the right of way. Damn. Part of my brain went “Stuff it, it’s your wave!” And sure enough I was then on the wave. A look over my shoulder proved she was too. Our eyes met, her’s said ‘get off my wave,’ mine said ‘oops’ or so I hoped. I cut along the wide face weaving up and down. Magic!

Many people have tried to describe the magic that is surfing. The feeling of gliding along the wave is as close to being in the moment as you can physically be. The balance, the fleeting moments left on the wave, the adrenaline, the feel of the wind, the cool water, the wax beneath your toes and the sun, all combine and almost overload the senses. When it’s all over it leaves you with a massive smile on your face and all your thoughts are honed to ‘I wanna do that again!’
I kicked off the wave and before I could make eye contact with the local chick, I turned back out to the break. A giant smile plastered across my face.