We arrived at San Juan Del Sur, on the south west coast of Nicaragua after a long two days of bus travel. Several hours involved a ‘chicken bus,’ an old US school bus which somehow made its way south and is now the local bus. As you may have guessed, the name comes from the way they pack people on to the bus – like chickens. Ironically San Juan Del Sur is only about 4 hours drive from Santa Teresa, stupid us for booking the ticket from San Jose to Managua ahead of time.
The town itself is an old fishing town built on a crescent beach sheltered by hills either side. Fishing boats and yachts are moored across the bay. A giant statute of Christ overlooks the bay from the North hill and in stark contrast a fish processing plant is on the south end of the beach. I couldn’t help but wonder if Christ was there overlooking the fish in their time of need. The fish processing plant was strangely enough donated by the Japanese, boycotting international trade sanctions perhaps?
The town itself has two distinctly polar sides interlaced on the dusty streets. The old simple life of its fishing heritage is apparent; the locals sit on the ground outside hole in the wall shops chatting all day long; dusty faced kids play in the gutters and alleys with balls and toys that look like heirlooms; the milk is delivered via a oxen pulled cart in giant pales; several people ride donkeys and mules instead of cars and the local bicycle repair shop is doing a roaring trade. But the new culture of salt loving holiday makers is overwhelmingly apparent. Vendors stalk the beaches and streets flogging everything from cigarettes to jewellery and ‘antique’ vases. Every fifth building is a hotel, hostel or a tour booking agency and the beach is dappled with American themed restaurants and bars.
That being said, it was a relief from the over touristy version of Jaco and there definitely wasn’t a KFC in sight. The conversion rate was also a lot kinder.
The water was surprisingly cold after the tropical waters of Costa Rica. It felt good to be back in the ocean. The two days travelling had taken it out of me and thoughts of the Australian summer, that I was currently missing, was penetrating my mind. But this wasn’t a British winter, this wasn’t a summer lost to working long days, this was freedom in a warm climate and a completely new experience. The shit side of travelling – the hectic transfers, the stress of deadlines, the sleep deprivation, the public washrooms, the sickness that follows, I could go on but I don’t feel that it’s in my best interest too – all of it reminds me of one of Nietzsche’s theories. The German philosopher believed that positive experiences were not possible without first experiencing negative ones and ‘gardening’ them successfully.
Fortunately I knew from my experience travelling how to deal with travel weariness and homesickness. I had a shower, washed my hair, put on clean clothes and made myself comfortable to read a book and listen to my iPod (cheery songs only.) I’m sure a psychologist would tell me this is simply distraction, but everything always seems better when you’re clean, comfy and entertained. Plus, moods always pass, just ride the bad ones out.
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